Customer Service

We have knowledgable and passionate dealers stocking our products located all around the world.  To locate your closest stockist use our dealer locator by clicking on Find A Dealer.

No, we do not sell boats factory direct. We rely on the best dealers in the business to make our products available to the public.

They can help you decide which boat is best for you and explain colour choices, options, etc.  You can look up your nearest dealer on our website by clicking on Find A Dealer.

Spraydeck Type

There are many choices of spraydeck available in many shapes and sizes.  The first place is to decide on the type of spraydeck that is right for you, whether it is whitewater focused (fully neoprene), more recreational (all nylon) or somewhere in the middle (neoprene deck with fabric tube)… where and how you want to use your kayak will effect your decision here as well as the level of performance/comfort you are looking for.  If you are unsure of which type is right for your needs then you should seek advice from your local kayak retailer as to the options they have that are right for you.

Spraydeck Size

Once decided on your make/model of spraydeck then you’ll need to work out the correct size to order it in so that it fits your kayak properly.  To ensure you get the right fit for your Wave Sport kayak you will need to know your boat's cockpit dimensions.  Measure the length and width of the cockpit - for current Wave Sport models, these dimensions can be found on our product pages.

Use these measurements to order your chosen spraydeck in the correct size.  You can check the size options of your chosen spraydeck by looking on the manufacturers website for that spraydeck - each spraydeck manufacturer will give details of the deck size options their spraydecks are available in and list the appropriate min/max cockpit sizes that are suitable for each of these options.  The same info is most likely accessible via each spraydeck product page on your local kayak retailers website and also the product label on each spraydeck.  If in doubt about the correct size to order, seek advice from your nearest Wave Sport dealer.  

Spraydeck Options

Finally, once you have your make/model of spraydeck and the correct deck size to order it in for your kayak, just check to see if the spraydeck also has a waist size option on the waist tube - most spraydecks are one-size, but some do offer different waist sizes for a personal fit.

CRADLE TROLLEY

Using a collapsible cradle trolley under your kayak can help in transporting all your kit to the beach or put-in.  The width of the trolley should match the width of your kayak so that it sits comfortably on the trolley. The kayak is then secured to the trolley via a strap. These cradle style trolleys are suitable for all types of kayaks including touring and sit-on top kayaks.

SCUPPER HOLE TROLLEY

We strongly advise against the use of any Scupper Hole Trolley.  These use vertical poles to insert through a sit-on top kayaks scupper holes (self-drainage holes). They cause excessive stress to the kayak and have been known to cause significant damage.  

Warning:

Damage caused to a kayak through the use of a trolley is not covered by warranty!

ROOF RACK 

A crossbar roof rack (or “sports rack”) for your vehicle is the best method of transporting a kayak. Your kayak should be lashed down on to each crossbar, as well as at the bow and stern to each end of the vehicle. Kayak cradles are recommended for boats being transported “flat” to lessen chances of deformation from being lashed too tightly to the bars. Rotomolded kayaks can be transported on their edge or upside down (hull up) safely using kayak stackers. However, composite kayaks should always be transported on their bottom using cradles to prevent deformation. 

USING FOAM BLOCK RACKS 

Foam block racks can be used for short distances or lower speed transportation. They should be wide enough for adequate support, as well. Use extra caution with foam blocks as they are not as secure as cross-bar racks. Foam blocks also make it essential to tie off the bow and stern of the kayaks directly to the vehicle. 

INCLEMENT WEATHER

If travelling when inclement weather is threatening, position the kayak upside down if possible. A kayak heavy with water can become dangerous. Use a portage cover to seal the cockpit if an upside down position is not possible. Periodically check your straps to ensure they have not stretched while wet. 

Important:

It is recommended to always stop shortly after the start of your trip to make sure all fittings and connections are secure.

SHORT TERM STORAGE

Be sure to empty the kayak of all water. The kayak maybe stored on its side or in a vertical position temporarily. Storage in these positions for an extended period of time could cause flattening or deformation in the side of the hull. 

LONG TERM STORAGE

In addition to emptying all water out, you should clean the kayak by rinsing with freshwater. Store out of direct sunlight and indoors, if possible. UV exposure can shorten the lifespan of any kayak and can degrade its finish. Kayaks can be stored slung on their sides via webbing straps, positioned 1/3 of the way along the hull. Be sure to not leave straps or ropes tightly wound around the hull for extended periods of time as it may cause deformation.

Your kayak can also be stored hull up on parallel bars with weight supported evenly throughout its length. For smaller cockpit kayaks, position bars so that they contact the deck either side of the cockpit or between the cockpit and any hatches. 

Caution: 

Do not suspend your kayak by using the grab loops at either end of the boat. This can cause the hull to distort over time. 

Clean your polyethylene kayak with mild soap and water. Usually, a quick rinse of fresh water is all that is necessary to keep your hull clean and functioning in good order. This is very important after paddling in salt water, or if your boat is outfitted with a skeg system. Be sure to thoroughly rinse any footrests, skeg and skeg cable/rope with fresh water to remove salt residue. 

Be careful when loading and unloading your kayak. Superficial scratches may occur, but can be removed or reduced by use of a marine boat polish designed for polyethylene hulls. Sanding or use of an abrasive rubbing compound is not recommended.

To keep your kayak shining and minimise the long-term degradation caused by UV exposure, use an ultraviolet protectant such as 303 Protectant (or a similar plastic protectant).

Avoid dragging a kayak across the ground to prolong its life and maintain its look and performance. Two people, utilising the grab handles is the best way to carry the boat. Alternately, you can transport using a kayak cart, available at your local dealer.
 

A "dip" in the hull is common and natural in many kayaks. It occurs with age, as boat hulls tend to wear in the seat area. This area under the seat is no less strong than the rest of the boat, but it is less rigid due to it being a large flat surface. It can therefore buckle due to temperature fluctuations, pressure from tie down straps, storage conditions, etc. This should not be considered a problem unless you notice an extremely soft or spongy feeling when pressing on this area. The same is also true of dents in the side or chine of the kayak.

These are often noticed after the boat is removed from vertical transport on a roof rack. The solution is to set the boat in the direct sun for a couple of hours (preferably in a grassy yard, not on pavement) with the dented area exposed. When the hull heats up it usually reforms itself. You may have to get creative with some weights or braces inside the boat to push the dents back out.

This process should be allowed to proceed for at least two hours. In the absence of sun or in the cooler months one foolproof way to not damage your boat and remove a dent is to use water that has been brought to the point of boiling. This will heat the plastic to a soft state without burning or melting it and allow you to push the dent out.

The off-season is the time to dig that boat out and give it a once (or twice) over and make sure it's ready for paddling season. Boat maintenance not only keeps your boat looking good but also keeps it 100% seaworthy (or river safe). 

Hopefully when you're not paddling your boat you can store it properly. This includes good ventilation, a well supported hull, and hopefully out of the weather. Add a cockpit cover and it helps keep the inside clean and the critters out!  A good padded 2X4 rack or saw horses work well.  You can store it either on its side or flat, either hull up or down.  There are also hanging racks that utilise nylon webbing and buckles that work well, especially when floor space is limited.  Boats should not be hung from only their end toggles as it can put strain on the hull and affect the hull shape.  

If a rotomoulded plastic hull has developed any uneven spots, waves or what we call oil-canning, you can heat up the affected area and the hull should go back to its original shape.  Heat sources vary but a heat gun or hair dryer used carefully, works best. Do NOT use open flame.  Heat the area around the deformity up until it starts to feel quite warm to the touch.  You can gently push the material back into shape and even a block of wood or other material can be wedged to temporarily hold the shape while it cools.  

As far as scratches and light gouges go…..remember they are only cosmetic and do NOT greatly affect the performance of your boat!  Spending time sanding the hull of a plastic boat is wasted AND you are removing material from your boat!  

As far as protective coatings for plastic boats there are quite a few opinions floating around out there.  A coating of 303 Protectant does provide some extra UV protection BUT does make the boat slippery and the 303 will come off in the water.  If you choose to use 303 apply sparingly and wipe off /buff out the boat before it goes back on the water.  

Now let's take a close look at the deck and cockpit. Decklines, bungies, end toggles, hatches and straps all take a beating and can wear out long before the hull so a close inspection and repair or replacement maybe called for.  Same goes for rudders, retractable skegs, foot braces, seats, all deck fittings and hardware. 

Now let's check the bulkheads. The sealant used on the foam bulkheads needs regular maintenance to stay waterproof.  The use of flexible, mini-cell foam with a soft pliable sealant ensures good contact and security, but eventually this seal may be compromised.  It's easy to see where the bulkhead seal has failed and all it takes is a good cleaning and drying and the application of Lexel sealant over the joint.  Wear protective gloves and don't be afraid to use plenty!  Lexel is available at most hardware stores.  3M 5200, Sika-flex, Marine Goop and other marine grade sealants may also work.   There are many online videos, forums and websites that will help guide you through these repairs and procedures.  Your local dealer can be quite helpful in providing hands-on help and parts, as well!